Virginia Rising: A Bold Challenge to California's Wine Dominance

With unique blends, passionate winemakers and expressive terroir, Virginia’s wines are capturing attention and palates across the country.

DuCard Vineyards is part of Virginia’s wine revolution.

As my wife leaned in, her voice dropped a register, as if to share a secret.

“Virginia is coming for California,” she said, a smile washing across her face as her eyes widened.

In her glass was the Barboursville Vineyards “Octagon” 2017 ($75), a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. With pronounced aromas of dark chocolate and dried violets on the nose, it was a full-bodied red featuring chocolate, boysenberry, and a hearty mouthfeel that gave way to slightly chalky tannins.

The Commonwealth of Virginia isn’t about to unseat the 606 million gallons of wine produced by California—accounting for 81% of all domestic production—but what’s exciting, what caught her attention and mine, is that Virginia wine has tapped into a grape-growing and winemaking vein that is distinct, delicious and deftly crafted by a talented group of hungry winemakers making their mark.

Five red wines and a sparkling rosé were showcased as part of the Virginia Governor’s Cup Case.

Barboursville Vineyards’ Vermentino earned the top-scoring white wine, while its red—crafted by winemaker Luca Paschina—earned top honors in our house.

“We understand very clearly that Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the kings of this area,” said Paschina, who has been making wine in Virginia since 1997.

In the hometown of 50 West winemaker Jason Burrus, there’s the King of Beers. He hails from St. Louis, Missouri—“beer country,” as he calls it. Yet, Burrus veered from hops to grapes, studying at UC Davis and working in Malta and California’s Napa, Sonoma and Central Valley regions.