Pasqua's Mai Dire Mai Proves Amarone Doesn't Have to Stand Still
Riccardo Pasqua's "Never Say Never" mindset is redefining Amarone for a new generation—without forgetting what made it legendary.
Some wines announce themselves with a glass. Others begin with a story.
Pasqua’s Mai Dire Mai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2016 ($130) does both.
“Mai Dire Mai” translates to Never Say Never, not a title off the newest James Bond film — but a title inspired by the vineyard itself. After years searching Valpolicella for the right site, the Pasqua family had nearly abandoned hope before discovering a remarkable hillside vineyard overlooking the Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane. Standing there, the words came naturally.
But for CEO Riccardo Pasqua, “Never Say Never” has evolved into something much larger than a clever name.
“It’s a reminder to keep questioning conventions,” Pasqua says. “Amarone is one of Italy’s most iconic wines, but that doesn’t mean it should stand still.”
That philosophy is evident from the first pour.
Rather than chasing sheer power, Mai Dire Mai offers a more contemporary interpretation of Amarone, one that favors precision as much as concentration. The wine opens with aromas of ripe black cherry, dried plum and blackberry layered with cracked pepper, cinnamon, cocoa powder and Mediterranean herbs. As it sits in the glass, notes of tobacco, balsamic and forest underbrush emerge, adding complexity without overwhelming the fruit.
The palate is rich but remarkably energetic. Dark fruit, bittersweet chocolate and baking spices unfold across a structured frame, yet vibrant acidity keeps the wine fresh from beginning to end. Fine-grained tannins provide length and elegance, creating an Amarone that feels surprisingly agile despite its considerable depth.
That balance begins long before the grapes reach the cellar.
Mai Dire Mai comes from the 23-hectare Montevegro vineyard, perched roughly 1,150 feet above sea level on limestone- and basalt-rich soils. The elevation naturally preserves acidity while extending the growing season, allowing the fruit to develop flavor without sacrificing freshness.
Even during the traditional appassimento drying process, the goal isn’t simply concentration.
“We’re looking for concentration without losing vibrancy,” Pasqua said.
The wine then spends 24 months aging in new French oak, split between barriques and larger tonneaux. Rather than dominating the wine, the barrels serve as supporting actors, integrating tannins and refining texture while allowing the vineyard and appassimento to remain center stage.
“If appassimento gives the wine its voice,” Pasqua said. “Barrel aging helps refine and focus it.”
