Merlot’s Redemption Story

At Northstar Winery, David “Merf” Merfeld is proving that nuance, structure and soul still have a place in American Merlot.

Northstar crafts exceptional Merlot in Washington.

David "Merf" Merfeld searched for Merlot’s soul.

It hasn't been easy.

Overproduced in the late ’80s and early ’90s, Merlot saw a precipitoud drop in quality, earned a dubious reputation and cooled due to market fatigue.

Then, Merlot was nearly done in by the strays fired from an Academy Award nominated 2004 film. It’s not a stretch to say Merlot has been through quite an ordeal.

But through all that, Merf has latched onto a varietal that is a survivor and its soul might just reside in the soils of Washington.

“Merlot’s subtle and nuanced, it doesn’t hit you over the head,” said Merfeld, winemaker at Northstar. “I built my career on it. I love Cab, but Merlot pairs with a wider variety of food and performs incredibly well in Washington.”

Northstar’s 2022 Columbia Valley Merlot ($60) is proof. It’s bold enough for grilled meats, yet plush and velvety enough to sip solo. It’s bold, blackberry compote and ripe plum fruit flavors are complimented by cedar and dark chocolate notes. It’s the quinticential iron fist wearing a velvet glove and it showcases the full potential of Washington Merlot.

“Columbia Valley contributes structure, red and black fruit, and brighter acidity,” Merfeld said. “That blend gives us the true expression of Merlot in this state.”

David "Merf" Merfeld, the “Merlot Whisperer.”