Matt Dees and The Paring prove value wines can still speak with greatness Subheadline:
The acclaimed California winemaker discusses terroir, mature vineyards and why sincere wines always have a place at the table
Certain conversations carry a rhythm that never fades.
Like watching old footage of Ali and Frazier, or Jordan and Bird locked into a one-on-one game, the cadence is instantly familiar — competitive, joyful, sharp and built on respect.
That’s what it feels like talking wine with Matt Dees.
No warmup needed. No easing into the conversation. We pick up exactly where we left off.
Dees, the winemaker behind The Paring along with Jonata and The Hilt, talks about wine with the blend of precision and soul that only comes from someone who has spent decades listening closely to vineyards.
“I was this idealistic kid trained in soil science and plant physiology,” Dees said. “I thought everything was terroir; site, aspect, rootstock, rainfall…I thought people didn’t matter.”
Twenty-five years later, he laughs at that younger version of himself.
“People matter massively,” he said. “The place where you make wine matters massively. Everything moves into that great French term, terroir.”
That philosophy sharpened in 2019 when the team moved into a new winery. According to Dees, every wine made there immediately elevated.
“The best thing we’ve ever done for the winery is the people we hired and giving them space to be free,” Dees said. “The wines charged onwards and upwards.”
That freedom and confidence radiate through The Paring wines, bottles that may carry value pricing but perform far above their category. These are not “good for the price” wines. They are simply outstanding wines that happen to remain accessible.
Dees takes obvious pride in that.
“I take as much pride in a wine that costs $25 as the ones that cost XYZ,” he said.
