At Papapietro Perry It's All About The Fruit

At Papapietro Perry Winery, every vineyard and clone gets time to shine—because for Ben Papapietro, great Pinot Noir starts with patience, precision and a deep respect for the fruit.

Renae Perry with Ben and Yolanda Papapietro

When it comes to Pinot Noir, Ben Papapietro knows it’s all about the fruit.

The co-founder of Papapietro Perry Winery doesn’t just say it though. He lives it. In every fermenter, barrel and blend. For him, Pinot Noir is a delicate dance between nature and nurture, where showcasing bright, expressive fruit trumps the pursuit of power.

“You’ve got to give Pinot time to be itself,” Papapietro said. “We keep every vineyard and clone separate; from the pick, through fermentation, to barrel. Each has its own voice. Some are bright, some need more acidity and some have structure that carries a blend. We don’t even think about putting them together until spring.”

In a world where rushing is the norm, Papapietro’s patience stands out. Every lot is fermented in one-ton bins, pressed and aged in French oak. It’s just long enough for the wine to settle, but never so long that oak overshadows fruit. The philosophy is simple: coax the flavor rather than force it.

That dedication shows in my top Pinot Noir of the year (thus far!): the Papapietro Perry Sonoma Coast 2022 ($67). It arrives with a whisper, a shy wine that doesn’t demand attention. Cranberry, raspberry and pomegranate flavors hold hands through the experience. None vie for attention, rather they welcome a long lasting, seamless flavor profile. Hints of blood orange, iron and sea salt wrap up an incredible wine.